24 Jul 2019 1751
Sandra Nobre Short Stories
#experiences #gastronomie #tips

Lisbon with a fresh coat of paint

From junk comes art: the techniques and expertise of the old craftsmen are being recovered, and the classics of film and literature revisited. Through doors and passageways, steps and alleys, Lisbon reinvents itself around every corner.

Livraria da Travessa

‘Tall and tan and young and lovely/ 

The girl from Ipanema goes walkin'/ (...) When she walks, she's like a samba 

That swings so cool and sways so gentle 

That when she passes, each one she passes goes, ah...” Just like Tom Jobim’s Girl from Ipanema, the young and lovely Livraria da Travessa bookshop has crossed the Atlantic, 33 years after its parent store in Rio de Janeiro was opened by founder Rui Campos, and it shares the same mission: to bring readers and books closer, to get writers and ideas together. On the shelves you will find Portuguese novelists Eça de Queiroz, Miguel Torga and António Lobo Antunes alongside Brazilian authors Machado de Assis, Jorge Amado or Chico Buarque. This transatlantic literary adventure is the first outside Brazil, where it has nine outlets, each with a similar philosophy of neighbourhood bookstore with different curators and cultural events programmes. The Portuguese one is on the ground floor of the iconic Casa Pau-Brasil, a showcase for Brazilian brands in the Príncipe Real area of central Lisbon.

Rua da Escola Politécnica, 46, Lisbon
Tel. 213 460 553
Open every day

Photo: Igor Barbosa

Tinta nos Nervos

So many amazing drawings! This is one of those unexpected and stimulating spaces that brings back childhood memories from the age when we were all still exploring our talents at drawing. Open since June in the city’s Madragoa a Santos district, this gallery-cum-bookstore is dedicated to the various aspects of drawing, whether comics, graphic arts or illustration. There is also an attractive café with an inside patio, a tempting place to linger between the books and catalogues. The gallery holds temporary exhibitions, and artists are invited to leave one of their creations behind. There are also courses and workshops for the whole family.

Rua da Esperança, 39, Lisbon
Tel. 213 951 179
Closed Sundays and Mondays

Photo: Tinta nos Nervos

Carpintarias de São Lázaro

Like a phoenix risen from the ashes, earlier in the year the old carpenters workshops of San Lázaro, near Martim Moniz, have now recovered from the fire that destroyed them in the late 1990s, and reopened. The factory space is now a thriving cultural centre of about 1,800 square meters. There are three floors with seven-meter-high ceilings, divided into exhibition space and an auditorium with capacity for 120 people. A modern white spiral staircase contrasts with the traditional concrete design, keeping the exhibits centre stage. From the large window there is a fine view over Senhora do Monte, Graça and St. George’s Castle. Offering an eclectic programme including visual arts, music, theatre, cinema, dance, fashion and cuisine, it also embraces the local multicultural community by leaving room for other artistic events - see programme.

Rua de São Lázaro, 72, Lisbon
Tel. 213 815 891

Photo: Vasco Vilhena

Manufactum by FRESS

How many times have you thought that a certain museum exhibit would look great in your front room? At Manufactum, the pieces produced in the workshops of the Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva (FRESS) go hand in hand with contemporary designs and all can be delivered to the customer’s home address. The store, opened in early July, aims to make the work that the artisans have been doing at the institution since 1953 more widely known to the general public - whether it’s the preservation and restoration of classic pieces or the production of furniture and decorative items. The Foundation's workshops are located in the Azurara Palace, at Portas do Sol, in the same building as the Museum of Decorative Arts. Here training is provided in specialised areas such as carpentry, carving, ironmongery, lacework, bookbinding or decorative painting. This high-quality craftsmanship is now combined with the vision of contemporary designers, resulting in limited editions of pieces signed by Filipe Alarcão, Marco Sousa Santos, Sam Baron or Marre Moerel. There are lots of visual delights in this fantastic collection, but you can also buy smaller pieces like office accessories or jewellery and lacework.

Rua do Alecrim, 76, Chiado, Lisbon
Tel. 213 471 887
Closed Sundays

D’Olival Casa

At number 81, Rua Poiais de São Bento, there is a store specialising in olive oil made by couple Helena and Lino, who opened a second shop at the end of last year. The store, once a fishmonger's, is entirely clad in marble - floor, walls and counter - and decorated with Portuguese hand-crafted products. There are ceramics and tapestries, vases and chopping boards, among many other accessories, with that authentic design that brings country style to the city. It is right opposite the 28 tram stop in the direction of Martim Moniz/Graça-Prazeres, which is a good excuse to take the ride and see Lisbon through the eyes of a tourist.

Rua Poiais de São Bento, 127, Lisbon
Tel. 963 374 811
Closed Sundays

Photo: Matilde Almeida Cunha

Iberian Lynx by Bordalo II and the Virtual Reality Centre

In front of Gare do Oriente station, a giant Iberian lynx, one of the most threatened felines in the world, stands in the path of passers-by. The work, created by street artist Bordalo II, was unveiled at the end of June, at the close of the Lisbon +21 conference, by United Nations Secretary-General António Guterres. Made from reused materials collected from rubbish bins, it stands as a paradigm for the consequences of globalisation. The artist, Artur Bordalo, known as Bordalo II, has gained visibility with his sculptures made of garbage. In 2017 his first solo exhibition ‘Attero’ took place in Marvila, where he also has his workshop, and received about 27,000 visitors in less than a month. His works can be found in private collections in France, the USA and Japan, and he has worked on street and ephemeral art, mainly outside Portugal.
If you take a trip to the eastern part of the city, why not go further? Climb Everest, stroll on New York’s Seventh Avenue, get trapped in a basement and have an hour to escape before the bomb explodes... Don’t panic! It’s all virtual. The scenarios, escape rooms, multiplayer games that challenge your powers of reasoning, insight and speed are some of the attractions of the Virtual Reality Centre, which may not be the latest thing, but as no one ever remembers it exists, it may as well be... There are activities for the whole family, for individuals or groups.

Find the statue in the Garden at Parque das Nações;
Rua do Mar Vermelho, loja 2C, Parque das Nações, Lisbon
Tel. 928 093 343
Every day, by appointment

"Lince Ibérico" por Bordalo II
Lisbon, 2019
Photo: Miguel Portelinha

Terra Pão

Is there anything better in life than the simplicity of warm bread and butter? What if the dough is kneaded as it was in the past with natural yeast, letting it ferment at its own pace using the best cereal? The taste is different, more acidic, but it doesn’t take long for you to get used to it and come back for more. And what if you butter it as you eat it at the counter, still warm...  Terra Pão is the latest craft bakery to emerge in Lisbon, part of a movement that continues to add businesses and supporters. It is worth tasting the house bread: made with white wheat, barbela, whole rye and organic wholegrain spelt. But you will also find a good French cacete or a ciabatta here. Apart from the great ambiance, lunchtime meals are served at side tables or on the terrace, and there is a range of snacks available all day to tuck into.

Arroios Market
Rua Ângela Pinto, 40D, Lisbon
Tel. 910 494 446
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays

Genuíno – Presunto Workshop

Fancy a slice of cured ham to go with your bread? Just cross Lisbon to Campo de Ourique. O Genuíno is one of the latest and specialises in the sale of high-quality cured ham of different types and origins - from Portugal, Spain, France and Italy. The idea is to taste and appreciate different flavours and textures, and identify it from the colour, although the art of cala (identifying the quality by its smell alone) is perhaps best left to the experts. And rather than sampling on its own, foodies will delight in the chance to combine ham with young wines, sparkling wine or cava, together with bread and olive oil or tomato.

Rua Silva Carvalho 52 C, Lisbon
Monday - Friday: 12h às 21h
Saturdays: 10h às 14h
Closed on Sundays

Photo: Paulo Castanheira

O Pai Tirano

The saying goes: ‘the good son returns home’. And so does the father. In this case, he has returned to Bica, the same location used for recording António Lopes Ribeiro's 1941 film, at the top of the steps, on the way to the Adamastor statue. After closing its doors for two years, the bar that had become a Lisbon nightlife classic reopened in June with new management and the same formula: music, toasties and lots of conversation.

Travessa das Laranjeiras, 35, Lisbon
Tel. 211 234 567
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays

Monkey Mash

Once there was Red Frog, which became so famous it was rated one of the best bars in the world and, like Noah’s Ark, other animals came to join the fun. Since March, there’s been an ape to attract our attention, the Monkey Mash. In the style of a speakeasy, the new venue draws its inspiration from faraway destinations, like South and Central America, Asia and Africa. The menu combines tropical drinks and fruits served in a colourful and laid-back atmosphere, an oasis in this holiday city. The good news is that summer is finally gracing us with its presence... 

Praça da Alegria, 66A, Lisbon
Tel. 211 364 241
Open every day from 6pm

Photo: Jorge Simão

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